The install is complete. I finished it last (Sunday) night. I can't say it went as smooth as I would have liked, but it's done. I wanted to do the install on Saturday, but other things came up that I had to attend to. So, I got up feeling froggy on Sunday morning and decided to tear into it.
Getting the struts out was a piece of cake. I removed the two bolts that secure the lower control arm to the steering knuckle and my son lifted the steering knuckle away while I pushed down on the lower control arm and the struts came right out. The first problem I ran into was when I was disassembling the right front strut. The tab on top of the strut twisted off when I tried to loosen the nut securing the top spring mount to the strut. That left me with no way to loosen the nut. Dead in the water. I took my drill and chained drilled the nut on two opposing sides and then used a chisel to cut off the nut. Sounded simple, but it took well over two hours to disassemble the right front strut. The left side came apart easy.
The second problem is of my own making. For some reason, I got really confused when I clocked the springs on the struts. The lower coil termination is supposed to be at the rear and one of the three studs at the top has to point inboard. Three times I had to re-compress the springs using a POS spring compressor I got from Checker to re-clock the springs. Yea, I got it wrong twice before I finally got it figured out. Maybe someone could explain why its so important to have the springs clocked in such a fashion. The struts were as easy to install into the truck as they were coming out.
With the front done, I started on the rear. It wasn't long before I ran into my third show stopper. The bolts that secure the rear sway bar ends to a linkage coming off of the frame where really corroded. To make things worse, some brain-damaged engineer thought it would be a good idea to use an allen wrench in the end of the bolt to hold the bolt while either loosening or tightening the nut. After loosening the nut a few turns the allen wrench starts to strip out inside the bolt. It took me awhile, but I was able to re-tighten the nut and disassemble the linkage instead. I will needed to replace these links because as I was messing with the one on the right, grease started oozing from a boot on the linkage. I'm sure the boot is torn.
The nuts that secure the top of the rear shock to the frame were also heavily corroded and were a total PITA to get off, but once the shocks were off, the rest of the install was a walk in the park.
For anyone looking to do this install in the future, take the front struts to someplace to have them assembled. That was my original plan, but nothing was open on Sunday, so I tore into it myself. I won't do that again. The spring compressors you get from Checker, Autozone, etc. are a real PITA to use and my lack of power tools (hi-speed grinder and impact wrench) made the job that much more difficult.
I only had time to drive the truck around the block last night. The ride is a lot more stiff and the front end doesn't dive when I hit the brakes. One problem I see is that my steering wheel is not straight. It is turned slightly to the left when going straight. I occasionally thought my steering wheel was off a little to the left before and I had the front end aligned last May, but the shop said it was dead on and blamed it on road crown. Is there anything that I could have done in my install that would cause this? How long should I let the suspension settle before I align the front end? Does anybody know of any good alignment shops in the north end of the valley?